Done and Done: A checked, cropped Kalle

20181208_1048091741633295.jpgI purposely over-bought the black and while plaid I lined my most-recent Kelly Anorak, knowing I wanted to make (another) plaid, collared shirt. I had taken a break from my beloved Kalle and decided it was time to try the last pattern feature so I could officially declare it the best pattern ever (spoiler alert: it is.).

I almost chickened out last minute and cut the tunic version, but I stuck to my guns (and let myself be convinced by a few people) and went with the crop, mostly because that hem-facing looked too good. I added 2 inches as per us., but could easily have added another two.

20181208_1047571072537737.jpgThis fabric is lighter and has a more open weave than most flannels, but it actually works better for this pattern. Because of the boxiness of this pattern, your fabric needs a good amount of drape, or it’s going to stick out funny. The drape did, however, also make the fabric shift a good amount which made the popover placket difficult. The fabric shifted when sewing the placket onto the shirt front, distorting the line of the plaid. I re-did it a couple of times, changing the direction of my stitching, but it still wasn’t perfect. If you are using a shifty stripe or plaid, you may want to interface the shirt front before cutting into it to stabilize in wash-away interfacing.

20181208_1052011725268783.jpgI also managed to screw up the seam allowances sewing the placket on and ended up having to make a pucker at the bottom to have the button bands line up. In addition, the underneath of the button placket got folded when I sewed the point at the bottom, but the top looked fine so I just left it. Finished is better than perfect, right?

I did have a couple of victories, though! I matched the inside collar stand perfectly, and one (but somehow only one?) cuff disappears into the sleeve.

20181203_150717-1840270157.jpgAll that said, this is probably my favourite shirt to wear right now. Black and white checks are one of my favourite patterns to wear and I pretty much live in collared shirts. It’s loose and comfy, but the cropped, high-low hem makes it fresh and I feel so cool wearing it. So yeah, the Kalle is officially my favourite pattern ever.

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